OPEN HEARTH BBQ AT JAZZY’S

There is a gold standard for barbecues: Leatha’s, in Hattiesburg, Mississippi (6374 U S Hwy 98; 601-271-6003). I had the privilege of tasting that standard when my Mississippi Cuzn Don treated me and part of his family to supper there. I got to experience, first hand, the prodigious memory of Miss Leatha’s daughter’s memory. She can take an order for a table of a dozen or more and repeat it back, properly assigned to each customer, in complete detail without writing it down, after only hearing it once.

JAZZY’S BARBECUED RIBS

But, the food at Leatha’s, is of course, why everybody goes there. It’s tops. As I understand the story, her old restaurant was destroyed by some natural disaster–flood I think–and a group of businessmen bought her a new place just so the city of Hattiesburg would not be deprived of her cooking. It’s that good.

JAZZY’S BARBECUED CHICKEN

Well…I thought Leatha’s was the gold standard until I ate at Jazzy’s in Tampa. A motorcyclist friend habituates Jazzy’s (5703 W. Waters Ave., Tampa, FL 33634-1216; 813-243-8872) whenever he and his buddies go riding out in west Tampa. He took his wife and I to eat there not too long ago and I am grateful. I now know the gold standard for barbeque is in my own backyard: Jazzy’s BBQ — Taste and See! — It’s all good!

JAZZY’S BARBECUED HOMEMADE SAUSAGE

You can tell you’re at a REAL barbeque when you drive into Jazzy’s parking lot because beside the building is an enormous pile of chopped firewood. When you step inside, you’re greeted by the maestro of the kitchen wielding a cleaver, artfully chopping ribs and chicken he’s just taken off the open hearth grill behind the counter where you place your order. In addition to the ribs and chicken and various side dishes, they also have their own homemade smoked sausage which I just had to have (I’m a rabid “sausageanista.”) It was perfect: tasty, soft inside with a crispy, natural casing. And the sauce…oh my.

YOU KNOW IT’S A REAL BARBECUE WHEN THE WOOD IS STACKED OUT BACK

The AOL yellowpages has this review from which I’d like to quote a paragraph about the owner of Jazzy’s:

“Retired NFL player Johnny Ray Smith, a defensive back for the Tampa Bay Bucs 1981-84, opened Jazzy’s in the mid 1990s. It didn’t take long for the restaurant to gain a loyal clientele of area industrial and office workers, as well as people calling in orders from the farthest reaches of Hillsborough County. With just an order counter, some airbrush art and formation of two-seater tables, the 50-capacity Jazzy’s has become a favorite for barbecue lovers all over Tampa Bay. It’s all that wood that goes in the pit. You see those hickory logs piling up outside and smell it smoking juicy meat the moment you step out of your car (a torturous tease when driving by). Everything is homemade at Jazzy’s: Smith makes the sauce on the premises, one sweet and mild, the other hot and peppery, and the desserts are also prepared by Johnny’s wife, co-owner Pam Smith – sumptuous 7-Up pound cake, mini pecan or sweet potato pies.”

ONE OF THE MURALS AT JAZZY’S

This is an extremely comfortable place with a welcoming atmosphere and worth the drive from any point within the greater Tampa Bay area. On Fridays they have some special items they don’t have the rest of the week: mac and cheese, collards and cornbread. Next time, you can bet I’m going on a Friday!

JAZZY’S BBQ — TASTE AND SEE! — IT’S ALL GOOD!