amusements and pastimes

There’s an interesting getaway a leisurely five hour drive from Tampa: Jeckll Island, Georgia (www.jekyllisland.com).

The History of Jeckll Island page of the above website gives an encapsulated account of its history:

“In 1886, Jekyll Island was purchased to become an exclusive winter retreat for America’s most elite families, known as the Jekyll Island Club. For more than half a century, the nation’s leading families, including the Rockefellers, Morgans, Pulitzers, and Goulds, came to Jekyll Island ‘to secure an escape.’”

Jeckll Island Hotel Club exteriors

As with many of the pleasures one discovers in life, a trip to Jeckll Island would never have been something I would have sought out on my own initiative; rather, I went there because of an external event–the wedding of my son!

My son and his fiancé–now his wife–decided to have a small, “destination wedding.”

I’d never heard that term before. But, now that I’ve learned about it, I must say I’m taken with the idea. The couple and those invited to the wedding go to the destination and rent rooms through the night of the wedding. The wedding takes place on the grounds of the destination and included in the price of the event are things like the officiant, the musician, the photographer, the wedding dinner, etc. Then, the day following the wedding, the guests return home and the couple stays at the destination for their honeymoon.

Such a lovely idea. And in this case, this particular destination was such a lovely place, a place I would never have come to otherwise.

The guests and bride and groom stayed at the Jekyll Island Club Hotel (www.jekyllclub.com)–either the main building or one of the “cottages,” which are the former residences of people who used to winter there and who originally bought the island, people such as the Rockefellers, Morgans, and Pulitzers. Humble folk. Just about as humble as their three storey “cottages.”

Jeckll Island Hotel interiors

All the pictures in this post are of the Jekyll Island Club Hotel buildings and grounds.

There are other, quite good, less expensive places to stay on the island, but the Jekyll Island Club Hotel was less expensive than I thought it would be. Actually, it was less than some hotels on St. Pete Beach. So, if you’re only going for a couple nights, as I was, it doesn’t break the bank. For a very nice two days within a short day’s drive from Tampa, I really do recommend Jeckll Island, Georgia, and the other neighboring Golden Isles of Georgia (St. Simons Island, Brunswick, and Sea Island–see Brunswick and the Golden Isles of Georgia).

Jeckll Island Hotel dock

One last suggestion: when you visit the Jeckll Island Club Hotel, take time to visit its bookstore. Allow at least an hour to browse its many rooms, each dedicated to a specific theme related to the Georgia islands. My favorite (you can tell by checking my credit card statement for that visit) was the cookbook room, with many cookbooks relating to the Atlantic barrier islands cooking history.

Jeckll Island bookstore

There are two cookbooks in particular I’d like to mention. One is Gullah Home Cooking the Daufuskie Way: Smokin’ Joe Butter Beans, Ol’ ‘Fuskie Fried Crab Rice, Sticky-Bush Blackberry Dumpling, and Other Sea Island Favorites. The other is Cornbread Nation 5: The Best of Southern Food Writing.

Cornbread Nation is the most recent in a series of Best of Southern Food Writing volumes. That title is obviously carefully chosen. It’s the quality of the writing, not just the recipes, that is the appeal of the series.

trees and moss

Gullah Home Cooking the Daufuskie Way is, of course, about the cooking of the Gullah region (the coast of South Carolina and Georgia), home to the Gullah who…

” are known for preserving more of their African linguistic and cultural heritage than any other African-American community in the United States. They speak an English-based creole language containing many African loanwords and significant influences from African languages in grammar and sentence structure. The Gullah language is related to Jamaican Creole, Barbadian Dialect, and the Krio language of Sierra Leone in West Africa. Gullah storytelling, cuisine, music, folk beliefs, crafts, farming and fishing traditions, all exhibit strong influences from West and Central African cultures.” [ref]

To say more about the Gullah would require another whole post. There is also an incredibly rich and beautiful Gullah musical tradition that would require yet another whole post! So, I’ll leave you with these five links that interested me in a Google search of Gullah.

• Gullah Language & Culture
• The Gullah: Rice, Slavery, and the Sierra Leone-American Connection
• Hilton Head Island Gullah Celebration
• Gullah Festival
• Gullah Gourmet

Also…all best wishes to my son and daughter-in-law. May you have many, many happy years together!

[Disclaimer: if you buy something, like the books above, through my Amazon.com links, I receive a teeny-weenie commission from Amazon. It really is miniscule. It doesn't increase the price of the item in any way. So, if you'd be willing to buy something through my Amazon links, I might be able to afford a second cup of coffee some morning! I make this disclaimer because we are now required to by law, so please consider things thoroughly disclaimed.]

That’s why I was so happy to learn from the owners of Island Seafood Market & Bistro of Angie’s Front Porch Cafe (495 7th Ave. N., St. Petersburg, FL 33701; 727-320-4540).

Angie’s has a very nice Sunday brunch buffet!

Their website, angiesfrontporchcafe.com/frontporchcafe/, has an old address, the correct one is above. They also have a Facebook page.

Overlooking the historic Round Lake (pictured at the top of this post), Angie’s is in a vintage building (pictured above) that it shares with a laundromat. There’s plenty of parking on the street and in the lot immediately behind the building (the tow signs concerned me, but they assured me it was OK to park there).

Their website gives their lunch menu and breakfast menus. I love the fact that I’ve finally found a place where I can have a choice of plenty of salads, soups, sandwiches and wraps–just the kind of food I like for lunch. I’m not a sweets person, particularly, but if I were, Angie’s would have plenty to satisfy me. I will definitely try their key lime pie, soon.

But, speaking of sweets, they have bananas foster on their Sunday buffet. I’d never had that before. I didn’t even know how to dish it up; I had to ask. There, at least, you serve it over some very good French toast. I loved it. I have no prior experience to compare the quality to, but it sure tasted good to me.

The decor is comfortingly cozy and cluttered with cards, crafts, and tchochkes for sale. The place was packed with, obviously, very happy and friendly neighborhood regulars. It was a pleasant experience to eat there.

The Sunday I was there, there was an extremely good singer/guitarist of the very, very mellow variety. Usually, when I see that there’s “live music” somewhere, I groan and try to avoid going. Not with this fellow. I thoroughly enjoyed his performance and it was appropriate to the intimate setting at Angie’s.

I’ll be back to Angie’s!

One of the challenges of being single is getting all the produce cooked while it’s still fresh. I’ve finally come to accept that simply isn’t going to happen until a fresh produce market opens within comfortable walking distance of my home so I can shop every day. Meanwhile, I keep working at ways to reduce waste.

Some strategies have worked and some haven’t. One recent one that definitely has worked is moving to dried mushrooms. They’re available in small packages in the grocery stores and I recommend starting with those while you experiment with different types. There are an amazing variety of dried mushrooms available, even at the grocery–far more dried varieties than fresh varieties.

But, once you’ve experimented some, you’ll probably want to start ordering online because you can order in larger quantities and for a better price.

Google “mushroom farm” and you’ll be surprised at the number of hits you get. Here’s just a few:

• Oregon Mushrooms
• Phillips Mushroom Farms
• Lost Creek Shiitake Mushroom Farm
• Sher-Rockee Mushroom Farm
• Fungus Among Us

(I absolutely love that last farm name!)

But, the place I order from (no, I don’t get a kickback for mentioning them) is JR Mushrooms & Specialties. I picked them on the basis of consumer reviews on Amazon. They have consistently high reviews from a large number of reviewers, some who have bought from that company for years. My own experience confirms their high opinions.

I bought a couple pounds of dried shiitake mushrooms and one pound of dried porcini mushrooms, Grade Extra AB. I just soak the mushrooms in water in the fridge overnight, but it doesn’t have to be that long–a few hours will do it. However, never eat dried mushrooms without reconstituting them first because of chocking dangers. Fully reconstituted, there’s no issues, of course.

The photo at the top of this post is of some reconstituted mushrooms. The photo immediately above is what a pound of dried shiitake mushrooms looks like. The photo below is this morning’s breakfast: a mix of some those reconstituted shiitake and porcini mushrooms, with minced garlic, okra, ginger, and eggs, scrambled in olive oil and topped with a generous dash of salsa, a low-carb, whole-wheat tortilla to the side.

If you’re in the mood for authentic Cantonese on the St. Pete side of the bay there’s really only two places: ABC Seafood, reviewed earlier in Inkwatu, and the Lucky Star Hong Kong Style Chinese Restaurant (4175 66th Street North, St Petersburg, FL 33709-4915; 727-381-8888‎; map).

On the Tampa side of the bay, my favorite is China Yuan, but over here in St. Pete, I’m partial to Lucky Star, not only because of its food, which is so flavorful you never even think of reaching for soy sauce, but also because Lucky Star, in its earlier incarnation on 34th Street before their fire and relocation, was my introduction to authentic Cantonese food in St. Pete. The earlier restaurant was one of the many little experiences that accumulated to inspire me to move to St. Pete.

I was introduced to it by a friend whose father had had a similar restaurant while my friend was growing up. He showed me the dishes that the Lucky Star had that made it a special place and helped me to feel comfortable there. Sadly, by the time I moved to St. Pete my friend had, himself, moved to a different city and the Lucky Star had closed because of a kitchen fire. Then, the owners finally reopened up on 66th Street, north of Tyrone Mall. It’s been a favorite of mine ever since and I’m remiss in not having reviewed it earlier.

It’s open 7 days a week, but only in the late afternoon and evenings (Monday, Wednesday, Thursday and Friday 3pm to 1am; Tuesday 3pm-11pm; Saturday and Sunday 1pm-1pm). Notice that it’s open into the wee hours for late-late dining. That truly makes it a special place.

But, it’s the food that really makes it special. Here are just a few of the dishes, from their large menu, that you won’t find on less authentic restaurants around town:

• Shark Fin Soup
• Jelly Fish
• Spicy Duck Feet
• Fried Chitterling
• Spicy Chicken Feet
• Preserved Duck Wing
• Blue Crab
• Pepper Corn Squid
• Sautéed Conch
• Bird’s Nest Seafood
• Razor Clam
• Braised Sea Cucumber
• Snail w/Black Bean
• Frog with Chinese Chive
• Steam Salted Fish with Minced Pork

Lest you think the Lucky Star’s appeal rests only upon these more exotic dishes, let me stress that it’s the taste that keep me coming back there. And, the dishes that I, myself, order are the ones that are a little less adventuresome: the casseroles, vegetables, and sizzling plates.

A friend and I, who have, several times, gone there for their whole roast duck, which is spectacularly crunchy, were there again recently and were blown away by two of their sizzling plates: Sa Cha Eggplant and Garlic Shrimp. There wasn’t anything left by the time we were finished eating. We were dickering over who got to lick the plates.

They also have a number of fried rice and noodle dishes. I’m a fan of both those, especially noodles, so I’m slowly working my way through them. Next time I go, I’m going to try the Cantonese Pan Fried Noodles.

They seem to have two menus, one that’s more authentic foods and one that caters to the typical American-”Chinese” fast food tastes. It’s fun looking at that second one, too. That one actually has five chop suey dishes!

The origins of the dish, “chop suey,” are not clear. I make that plural because, as the Wikipedia entry (Chop suey) points out, some think it originated in San Francisco during its early days and some say it came from Taishan, in Guangdong Province. Adding to the confusion is that some early Chinese restaurateurs in the US served a dish of mixed entrails, calling it “chop suey.” This, the Chinese, themselves, did not eat. So, there’s a lot of confusion around the term.

I assume that chop suey is really kind of a late-19th century/early 20th century American-Chinese food, much lacking in authenticity…about as authentic as the game mah jong, which is to say, Not much! But, for me, there’s considerable nostalgia in the dish. When I was a little kid, when our parents would take us into the city (St. Louis) to eat, chances were we’d eat at a huge, Art Deco style cafeteria. My favorite dishes there were egg fu young and chop suey. I’m not sure why. I think it was the sound of the words and a taste for the exotic even at age 5.

Now, that version was definitely of the non-authentic (but not entrails!) type, typified by this Woolworth’s recipe. I love the opening ingredient in that recipe: “1 tablespoon lard or Crisco shortening.” This was in the days of a St. Louis that still had electric buses that click-click-clicked around town. I tried to identify the name of that old Art Deco cafeteria (it wouldn’t exist now, of course), but couldn’t. However, my searching did turn up a neat page–a list of defunct restaurant chains (see Defunct restaurant chains of the United States).

I was also pleased to discover, during my couple years residence recently in Hawaii, that Honolulu sports a number of restaurants exclusively devoted to chop suey (see this Google search). So, if you get a hankering for chop suey, check out what they have at the Lucky Star.

However, I recommend you try one of their more authentic dishes. Everything there is good. You simply can’t go wrong. I very, very highly recommend the Sa Cha Eggplant sizzling plate.

On a recent business trip to Fort Worth, Texas, my friends there took me to the Bavarian Bakery and Cafe. Such an establishment may not seem to jive with the stereotypical Texan cuisine, but it is a very popular place with the locals and it is decidedly authentic as both the owner/operators–husband and wife, Stephan and Melitta Bueschel–were raised in Germany.

I had a sandwich on thick rye bread, still warm from the oven. Warm bread of any sort is olfactory ecstasy and warm rye bread is special. The fragrance is like wine.

The one thing that definitely fit the Texas (the biggest, the best, “don’t mess with Texas”) mystique was the enormous real Bavarian clock on one wall that’s taller than a human…taller even than a Texan. Apparently, from what I’m told, it took a special crew and moving procedures to even get the object inside the restaurant. I kept wondering how it stayed attached to the wall. It must weigh a ton.

If this bakery were near where I live, I’m afraid I would weigh as much as the clock. I have a real weakness for fresh bread. It must be in the genes. Our (my sister and I) maternal great-grandmother and her sons once owned bakeries in Southern Illinois. I sometimes wonder if I’ve missed my calling.

click on photo then click again for close-up image

 
P. G. Wodehouse once said, “Everything in life that’s any fun, as somebody wisely observed, is either immoral, illegal or fattening.”

I’m so glad that’s not true of strawberries! They’re so good this year, and very affordable. And, local.

If you’re interested in fresh produce you definitely want to make it to the Saturday morning market. Here’s their website, www.saturdaymorningmarket.com/, a map, and some pretty pictures I took at the market: German bread, pastries, and very fresh fish and Saturday Morning Market.

Midweek, my favorite places to buy fresh produce are City Produce, any day, and Gulfport Fresh Market on Tuesdays.

For very, very fresh seafood, I recommend Island Seafood Market and Bistro.

There are other markets and specialty shops–too many to easily mention–but, the above are my usual produce and fish shopping haunts. For more possibilities, visit the Index page of Inkwatu at inkwatu.com/index/ and look under the Food category.